Home>Discussions>DOORS & WINDOWS>HELP Replacing PELLA Windows c.1986
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BigB1990
HELP Replacing PELLA Windows c.1986
BigB1990

Hi, I’m looking for some advice on how to deal with replacing the Pella windows in my house.
I’ve installed many replacement windows in my Mother’s house with no problems, very old single hung with the old weights. I’m now looking to do my own and am not sure how to proceed. I’m not even quite sure how I need to measure for these windows. They are PELLA aluminum clad windows from about 1985 or 1986.

I tried attaching a couple pictures to help show what I am talking about but I could not get them to upload:mad:. I tried everything. The size and format are correct but I keep getting a invalid format warning. If you can help me with that I would be glad to post some photos.

The windows are wood with aluminum cladding on the exterior and have a vinyl jamb cover. With the cover removed I would assume I would need to remove all springs, aluminum weather seal etc. back to the wood frame. This is where I would want to measure the width. There are a couple problems with this.
1) The aluminum clad on the outside of the window sticks out well beyond the wood frame.
2) The bottom sill lip does not line up with the inside stop. This lip is wrapped with aluminum.

I would like any help I could get before I even measure and order for these replacements. I’m planning on replacing 10 of these next (2016) summer. Hoping I can find someone who has dealt with these Pella windows and can give me some guidance. Where do I take my measurements and how will the replacements slide in (what do they stop up against)?
Thanks.
PS. I will try to get the photos to upload and if I can I will post them in this thread.

dj1
Re: HELP Replacing PELLA Windows c.1986
dj1

You measure rough opening.

BigB1990
Re: HELP Replacing PELLA Windows c.1986
BigB1990

I'm sorry my original post may not have been clear.

I want to install vinyl REPLACEMENT windows in my old Pella windows. I am aware if I were to choose to totally replace the windows I would remove the siding, measure the RO and remove the complete window . Then I would install new construction windows.

I was hoping to be able to just go the replacement route.

Sombreuil_mongrel
Re: HELP Replacing PELLA Windows c.1986
Sombreuil_mongrel

Hi,
I think you don't get photo uploading privileges until you hit 10 posts or something.
My local lumber yard sells a wood profile called "jamb liner" made for instances like this. It's beautiful clear poplar 1/2" thick x 5 1/2" wide. It evens out old window jambs, gives a nice finish. Also makes the new inserts 1" smaller in width, and 1/2" shorter if you do 3 sides.
I have a feeling there might be other problems lurking around the 30 year old clad Pella sills.
Casey

dj1
Re: HELP Replacing PELLA Windows c.1986
dj1

Custom vinyl windows that fit existing window frames are "so so".

I've seen vinyl discolors, vinyl frames bend, glass jolts out, locks come out of the vinyl that can't hold screws and rollers that quit...pretty undependable IMHO.

Replacement wood or metal windows that fit in the rough openings are much better. Trouble is, labor involves flashing and exterior/interior finishing - takes longer to complete and costs more. These windows will be my first choice.

Mastercarpentry
Replacenent Windows 101
Mastercarpentry

Replacement windows meant to be used with an existing window frame and sill are measured where the unit will go, and at the smallest point. Most sills slope so the height is measured at the inside where it's smallest. Replacements are usually installed from the inside so those flanges may not be a problem, but you need to check the replacement's thickness to be sure. Standard replacements are often rounded down to the nearest 1/2" to ensure a fit in a slightly bowed or racked frame. If you need custom units they usually build to the nearest 1/4", sometimes closer.

Now here's where it can get tricky- you need to speak with the salesperson taking your custom measurements and find out whether they want your actual frame measurements (which they will deduct about 1/4" from) or whether they want you to give them the actual build size you need. If the latter then you measure and deduct about 1/4", never less, checking to be sure a slightly small unit can still mount and seal correctly. If you have several windows of the same size measure them all; occasionally you may find one just a bit smaller than the others or one may have been altered on-site to fit a substandard opening. And measure all diagonally to check for squareness. When you order custom windows they are yours and unless there's a manufacturing defect they will NOT take them back so measure well and be absolutely certain your numbers will work. If it's a local manufacturer they might send a Rep to measure for you if you're replacing lots of windows.

You may have to disassemble one of your current windows to discover what needs to be removed for the replacements to know where they will rest so you can measure, but generally it's everything down to the frame itself. Some double-hungs have a 'split frame' where the parting rail does not fit into a dado but instead spaces between an inner and outer frame. With those you can't pull the parting rail, instead you chip and chisel it out of the way enough to get the replacement in. Doesn't have to be pretty, just has to be out of the way and enough left to maintain the window frame structure. Thankfully most go into dado's making it easy. Follow the manufacturer's instructions as to mounting, often fastener holes are hidden under plugs or other components. The salesperson can help you with that. Putting a nail or screw where it's not supposed to go can crack the new unit or interfere with it's operation. Pay special attention to caulking, there's usually a bead laid with the new unit pressed into it on all but the bottom. It's not a tough job but it does require paying attention to all the details and making no mistakes.

Phil

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