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jmreynolds
Garage Drywall

I have a 24 year old house with attached unheated garage. The garage is finished with drywall both the walls which I think are insulated and the ceiling which is definitely not insulated. My problem is that the spackle and tape are falling down from the ceiling along all the joint lines. I thought the problem might be related to the vibration from the automatic door operator. However, I think that the problem is more likely the temperature swings from summer to winter.

So, my question is what is the best approach for repairing the joints? Special type of tape and/or spackle?

Thanks.

canuk
Re: Garage Drywall

You're more or less correct with thinking of the temperature swings -- however -- add humidty changes.

It isn't clear but, if the drywall had never been primed / sealed and painted over the course of the 24 years then those joints will eventually fail.
Another issue --- a lot of times when drywall is installed in garages very little attention is paid on using the correct materials and proceedures ---- afterall it's just a garage.

Joint compound is the proper material to use and not finish compound. Joint compound drys harder and bonds better than finish compound.

In this case you would be better to remove all the tape from the joints ---- use the mesh tape --- purchase some joint compound ( like Durabond 90 ) and apply it to the seams over the tape ----when it starts to harden and before it fully dries ( 90 minutes in this case ) take your drywall knife and run it over the mud to knock down the high and rough spots ---- apply a second coat.

Then purchase some drywall primer / sealer and cover the mud job. Ideally it would also benifit by covering that with an exterior grade of paint.

A. Spruce
Re: Garage Drywall

It is noteworthy to mention that old, unfinished drywall is extremely dry, dirty, and sun faded. This causes several problems when trying to now finish it, 24 years after the fact.

1 - Being old and dry, as you apply wet compound over joints, nails, and other repair areas, the surface of the paper can bubble up and/or feather (delaminate ). This isn't as big a deal as it sounds, when you're ready and expecting it. Basically, get your first coat of compound on there and let it dry. Bubbles and feathering can be carefully scraped, removed, and filled with more compound. Applying texture once you're done with the finish work will help to hide any irregularities or roughness.

2 - Being discolored with dirt and faded causes two problems, the first is that drywall compound won't stick to an obviously dusty surface. Vacuuming the walls and ceilings will remove the dust. When you're done with the taping and finishing, either vacuum or sweep the walls down again ready for paint. The second problem is the faded surface is that it will bleed through your paint, causing blotchiness or worse. Prime the walls with two coats of Zinnser Bullseye 123 (blue label ) primer. If you notice any bleed through at this point, either apply another coat of primer or switch to the red label Zinnser. Topcoat with whatever paint and color you like. Stay with better quality brand names and "professional" product lines. Do not use the cheapest paint you can find. Do not use "contractor" grade paints.

Sombreuil_mongrel
Re: Garage Drywall

I would weigh the idea of adding a second layer using 5/8" firecode drywall if living space above, and taping with durabond for the first/bedding coat. D-bond is moisture-resistant compared with plain mud, which re-dissolves if wet.
If you can't add a new layer, tear off the old tape, prime with oil-based primer to seal the spoiled old mud before re-taping.

S_M

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