I have a question that I'm hoping some of you have experience with. The back wall of my 100 year old house was in bad shape....sagging with a rotted corner post etc. It had novelty style drop siding(shiplap joint) on it with no sheathing whatsoever. It was just siding nailed directly to the balloon frame with heavy rosin paper in between. Since many changes were being made to the wall ( a window where there used to be a door for a 2nd floor egress, a door where there used to be a window on the 1st floor , a larger kitchen window etc.) I decided to add sheathing to the wall.... 1/2 OSB ( for strength and also so I could re-wrap it more easily).
I pretty much ended up reframing the entire thing by the time I had repaired the existing framing and made the changes I needed to make for the openings. I will be wrapping it in Tyvek later this afternoon.
So....my question is this. The windows and doors that I'm putting in are all wood frame. The 2nd floor windows (3 of them) are all old style double hung 6 over 6. The patio doors are Marvin but have no nailing flange and the kitchen window is this weird awning window (it tilts out from the bottom) also with a wooden jamb and no fins/flanges.
What is the best way to flash these? Adding fins/flanges is out of the question as I am already too far behind schedule with winter approaching and 3 other sides of the house that need my attention. There is a lot of info on the web regarding new windows in old houses but this is the opposite.....and perhaps it's a unique situation. Who on earth would want to use those old windows when everything else is shiny and new? Well, I guess I would.
Anyway......the best two methods that I've seen in my web searches are either-
1) stapling tar paper strips over the edge of the rough opening, with the head flashing lapping the side flashings, applying caulk to the tar paper, then installing the casings embedded in the caulk. I believe this is sort of the old school approach and it sounds easy....which would be great
2) another approach which I've seen with a few variations ( including a Dupont PDF on flashing fin-less windows) is......using a peel and stick membrane doubled back on itself in some complicated way, then applying the casing. I don't really understand this method and am not sure it's the way to go. At the same time I am already going to be using peel and stick flashing on the rough sill so I will have that material on hand (protecto wrap)
So does anyone have any experience with this? It seems like wooden windows were being installed in wood frame houses for a lot of years before modern technology changed the game. I can't imagine that they always leaked. There's got to be a simple way of doing it, right? And if so, such as with the tar paper strips described above, what happens with the house wrap? Does it wrap in to the R.O. on the sides? Or does it get trimmed flush? I figure whatever I do is going to be worth the 1/2 hour or so per window that it will be. I just want it not to leak and I also don't want to alter the window jambs.
Sorry for the long post....just trying to describe the situation in as much detail as I can. Any advice is most appreciated. Thanks