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Drywall - Matching beveled edge to straight edge


I recently cut a new ~ 4' x 5' piece of 5/8" drywall to replace a large section in my garage. The problem is that because it is so large, I had to match the beveled edge to the existing straight edge of the drywall. My question: When taping the joint, should I first try to match the depth of the beveled edge with compound before taping? I believe that if you use too much depth of compound it could crack and this is why I ask the question.

Thanks in advance!

Re: Drywall - Matching beveled edge to straight edge

For some reason I come home late now and then and back a bit too far into my garage. I subsequently need to patch........

Just use some fiber mesh tape and float it out.

Re: Drywall - Matching beveled edge to straight edge

What I usually do is take a utility knife and cut and remove about an inch or inch and a half of the paper along the but joint. I then tape the joint. That way when you float the compound you don't have such a high hump to feather out.

Re: Drywall - Matching beveled edge to straight edge

what Jack said is fine if you use the bag mud which sets harder but you need to make sure that you use mesh tape over the complete area that you took the paper off from. if you don't it can be prone to cracking.

a recessed edge against a square edge is called a bastard joint. (because its an unatural mating) you should finish it in steps first put one coat straight over the joint, let it dry then put another layer of mud on each side of the first layer with out building it up on the first layer. let that dry then third coat over the complete area you should be using either a 10 inch or a 12 inch knife. and it should be about 2 1/2 feet wide when done. remember drywall is not flat or straight its all an optical illusion by spreading the humps over a larger area so they aren't pronounced.

Re: Drywall - Matching beveled edge to straight edge

Thanks all! I appreciate the info!

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