Home>Discussions>INTERIORS>Molding & Carpentry>Crown Molding on Bull Nose corners
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A. Spruce

Depends on how "round" you want to make the corner and how good you are at making those cuts. You can cut the corner square - inside corners would be trimmed to fit the cove, outside corners are a typical 45* cut on each leg, the gap is then caulked. You can 45 the corner, the 45* piece will go across the inside/outside corner. You can buy special cove moulding pieces for the corners. Or you can "horse-tooth" the trim, making as many segment cuts as you like to go around the arc of the curve.

As for the angle of the cut, again that depends on the number of joints within the corner. Basically, take the degree of the angle of the corner - say 90*, and divide it by the number of joints times two, to make the change of direction
Examples:
90* with two pieces of trim = 90*/(1 joint x 2) = 45*
90* with three pieces of trim = 90*/(2 joints x 2) = 22.5*
And to save yourself some serious headaches and hassles, cut yourself some sample blocks of trim with the cuts you need to make for both inside and outside cuts and mark them accordingly. This way, there's no brain bending to figure out what angle to set the saw or how to lay the material into the saw for the proper cut, all you do is match the sample block to what you're trying to cut and set the saw to that.

Daniel

Thank you very much. I will try this out.

basswood

Can anyone tell me what the cuts are for a corner that is bull nose?

This is a slideshow of the method I use for crown on bullnose corners:

http://s436.photobucket.com/albums/qq88/knottree/bullnose%20crown/?albumview=slideshow

Cheers,

Basswood

basswood
jkirk wrote:

believe what basswood posts, he's a contributer to finehomebuilding magazine. this guy knows his stuff. makes normy look like an apprentice

hey bass, this is woodworkbykirk

Hey Kirk,

Here you're a senior member and I'm the newbie...

...say what's with all the Spam posts here?

Weird.

All the best,

Basswood

JLMCDANIEL

Basswood,
How do you prevent separation with wood expansion and contraction?
Jack

basswood
JLMCDANIEL wrote:

Basswood,
How do you prevent separation with wood expansion and contraction?
Jack

I used the dowels like rebar and a double layer of expanded metal lath stapled to the crown and dowels. Interestingly the wood to plaster joints in that home proved more stable than wood to wood joints.

Here is the article:

JLMCDANIEL

It certainly was a beautiful job.
Jack

Gizmo

Ditto what Spruce posted,,,the cuts should be 22.5..Cut the pcs and use them for a template.......
Basswood thats pretty slick, yrs ago I seen a plaster guy do the same thing in a church, He had to do some repairs to the existing plaster crown. I think he made the trowel out of some sheet metal........Nice job

Anyone looking for a great angle/miter protractor look at the
Miter Master Plus. I'm the inventor of the product
( this is not spam in any way) the other dude is the spammer. When I invented the MMP I had the pro and DIYER in mind, it's the easiest miter tool I have ever used especially for crown molding....Check it out on your own. The product is Licensed out to QMS,and no Im not an employee of theres........

http://www.amazon.com/QUINT-GRAPHICS-T116-Miter-Master/dp/B001NM0KZ4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1261302837&sr=8-1

http://www.constructionforumsonline.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=122

http://www.josephfusco.org/

basswood
JLMCDANIEL wrote:

It certainly was a beautiful job.
Jack

Thank you, Sir.

It was a fun project.

Regards,

Basswood

http://basswoodcarpentry.com/

basswood
jkirk wrote:

yah this site is terrible for spam, at least one particular poster isnt here anymore. she argue everything you post based on things she'd read off google

keep posting and well try to get you into our elite group "intergalactilly stupid"

on another note what ratio do you use for doing your custom boston headers in comparison to the casing. ive been doing alot of them with a mdf flatstock which then gets mouldings applied to it, do you use the golden phi ratio

Hi Kirk,

A bunch of the Spam here is pharmacy stuff... strange for an Old House forum. Anywhoo...

The size of the casing is typically nominal 1x4 legs and 1x6 head... though I like a full 4" leg and full 6" head. Keep in mind that the head is overlapped by a small crown so you only see 4-1/2 or 5" of the head casing. (see photo of new casing and the original in the background)

The proportions are more based on typical sizes of the post and beam construction that the trim mimics. Trim details should make sense structurally even though they are ornamental. IMO this produces work that looks better, even if most viewers don't know why they like the look...

Very wide openings look better with a hefty "beam" (head casing)... so maybe step up to a 1x8, etc.

On the phi thing, the use of 4" and 6" actually comes close (golden ratio would be 4" and 6-3/8").

All the best,

Bass

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