Step by Step ProjectsTips from the ProsAffordable Remodel
post a picture of sink and x where you want the faucet, exposed lines are sort of cheesy if not done right.
You could probably craft something out of regular copper pipe, but the results would look rather cheesy. Even finding an inexpensive valve isn't going to look all that great on exposed piping.
If none of that matters, then I would plumb from the sink to behind the stove with flexible copper. Start and end the run with a ball valve - 90* turn to operate on/off. Out of the ball valve, install a hose nipple. Next would be to craft the spout arm. This can be as simple as an "L" shaped piece of rigid pipe that is held to the wall with pipe clamps or more aesthetic may be to use a piece of rigid pipe one size larger as a wall sleeve. On the end of the "L" behind the stove install another hose nipple, on the other leg of the "L" that will service the stove top, install a downward facing elbow and a short length of pipe. If you can find an aerator that you can graft on it would be best. All that's left is to connect the wall arm to the supply line with a length of hose. If you can make up the joints with copper solder rather than silver solder, the whole system can be polished up to look pretty decent.
A. Spruce - Thanks for your answer, I really appreciate the fast response. Unless I am missing something, though, your solution does not include a piece that pivots/swivels/hinges. I need the faucet piece to sit flush against the wall when not in use, and then swing out over the pot to fill it. I was figuring that if kitchen faucets can swivel, then maybe I could leverage that technology to build my pot fillter faucet. What do you think?
It's possible, but probably a pretty tall order for the average DIY'r.
The swivel spout in my description was the "L" shaped piece. You'd hold it to the wall with either pipe hanger clamps that are a size too big, or with a sleeve made from a larger piece of pipe. The hose connection from the supply to the "L" would create the hinge point.
This sounds really good, and much simpler than what I had in mind! In my head I'm trying to think of a way I can enclose the whole thing in sleeving that is either chrome, or stainless steel. Maybe even that stainless steel paint I have seen.
One question, when you swivel the faucet part out from the wall 90degrees, so it is not perpendicular to the wall, what holds it in place? I have something in mind but I am betting you'll have a better idea than mine. Please let me know what you think, and thanks.
If you're lucky, the hose would allow enough pivotal movement through it's coupling. If you're not lucky, then you'd have to install a collar something along the lines of a glueless coupling, though in this case it would only be snug enough to keep the spout from moving on its own.
If you actually build this thing, take lots of pics and post back.
OK, tell me what you think of this idea, since I'm already going to use an oversized pipe as a sleeve for the piece of hose, I could siply put a cap on it. I could cut the cap, or the pipe above the cap to allow the smaller inside pipe which is connected to the hose to sit flush against the wall, or lift up, slide in a groove, and sit in a notch so that it stays perpindicular to the wall. I have attached a crude drawing. I was thinking something like a slide bolt door lock.
That would probably work well. IMHO, you're going to want to keep as much of the wall mount and other unsightly things down below the back of the stove, so rather than notching the bottom of the tube like that, you could easily notch the top.
I'll post a picture of my kitchen, stove, and counters tonight or tomorrow, and maybe that'll make it easier for us to communicate. I like the idea of it being above the counter and stove so I can see it, and see if there are any problems/leaks. But I also like the idea of it going behind the counter and stove, so it is hidden. Is it OK to run water behind the stove like that? (it's a gas stove if that matters) It also would be passing under an electrical outlet, and near the electrical outlet for the stoves starter. (I know I will have to make those outlets GF outlets now, which is OK by me.)
If it's hidden I could do flexible hose the whole way, and then do the nipple, tube inside a tube pivoting right at the very end.
As long as the outlets are GFI there shouldn't be any problems. You do know that you only install one GFI at the head of the circuit or area you want to protect, then daisy chain the rest of the outlets from there. The single GFI will protect everything downstream if it's wired properly.