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OldHomeNoob
Correcting water in connection

I've got two plumbing issue that I might try to tackle in the next few days and am looking for some advice. A photo of this is below, but here they are broken out:

1) there is a corroding galvanized T off of the main flexible water pipe coming in the house
2) the outside faucets are plumbed before the pressure regulator, so they have high pressure (~140psi)

What is the best way to correct both based on the photo below?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/s6t8yn5t3ydg7p9/water%20in%20small.jpg (I would have posted this in-line but it keeps complaining it's invalid)

I'm trying to understand the best way to modify the connections.

Thanks for your help!

dj1
Re: Correcting water in connection

Where is the pipe that feeds the outside faucets? is it the pipe with the white shut off valve?
Do you want to keep the two rotary shut off valves (the red and white valves)?

Outside faucets/bibs don't really need a pressure reducer (PRV), unless they go to a sprinkler system.

If you want to keep the red and white valves follow these steps:

1. Cut the vertical and horizontal leads out of the T. Then unscrew the T and the galvanized nipple off the red valve.
2. Install a male adapter on the red valve, couplings on the lead to the PRV and on the lead to the white valve.
3.Install a copper T with short leads to the red, white valves and the coupling on the PRV side.
4. Solder.

If you want to replace the two shut off valves with 1/4 turn valves (what I would so), cut them off, put couplings on lead pipes and finish as above.

If you want the outside water to have reduced pressure, relocate the PRV to just above the red valve.

JLMCDANIEL
Re: Correcting water in connection

Buy a brass tee, a brass nipple the same length as the galvanized nipple below the tee, and a brass union to fit on the copper tube above the tee.
1- disconnect at the union on the PR valve.
2-Unscrew the horizontal pipe from the galvanized tee.
3- cut the galvanized nipple just below the tee with a hack saw or sawzall.
4- Unscrew the tee from the upper pipe
5- Unscrew the galvanized nipple from the lower shut off.
6- cut the tube going to the upper shutoff.

Install the brass nipple into the brass tee and screw the other end into the lower shutoff.
Screw the tube going to the PR valve into the tee and connect the union to the PRV.
Install the new union on the cut tube and screw the one end into the top of the tee
Install the other half of the union on the part of the cut tube going to the upper shut off and connect the two halves of the union together.

Jack

JLMCDANIEL
Re: Correcting water in connection

Oh and buy the way shut the water off while doing the work.:)

OldHomeNoob
Re: Correcting water in connection
dj1 wrote:

Where is the pipe that feeds the outside faucets? is it the pipe with the white shut off valve?
Do you want to keep the two rotary shut off valves (the red and white valves)?

Outside faucets/bibs don't really need a pressure reducer (PRV), unless they go to a sprinkler system.

If you want to keep the red and white valves follow these steps:

1. Cut the vertical and horizontal leads out of the T. Then unscrew the T and the galvanized nipple off the red valve.
2. Install a male adapter on the red valve, couplings on the lead to the PRV and on the lead to the white valve.
3.Install a copper T with short leads to the red, white valves and the coupling on the PRV side.
4. Solder.

If you want to replace the two shut off valves with 1/4 turn valves (what I would so), cut them off, put couplings on lead pipes and finish as above.

If you want the outside water to have reduced pressure, relocate the PRV to just above the red valve.

The pipe with the white valve does indeed go to the outside faucets. I'd like them after the PRV because the pressure is currently around 140 PSI and it causes every hose I've bought and the connections between hose/faucet to leak. In addition, I tried to setup a drip system this summer and the regulator included in the kit couldn't handle the pressure. I hadn't given any thought to replacing the valves with 1/4 turn versions, that might be a nice change.

The only thing I'm worried about now is that cutting the pipe to the outside (near the white valve) will eliminate a "support" for the PRV. I'm hoping this won't cause any issues.

Thanks!

OldHomeNoob
Re: Correcting water in connection
dj1 wrote:

Where is the pipe that feeds the outside faucets? is it the pipe with the white shut off valve?
Do you want to keep the two rotary shut off valves (the red and white valves)?

Outside faucets/bibs don't really need a pressure reducer (PRV), unless they go to a sprinkler system.

If you want to keep the red and white valves follow these steps:

1. Cut the vertical and horizontal leads out of the T. Then unscrew the T and the galvanized nipple off the red valve.
2. Install a male adapter on the red valve, couplings on the lead to the PRV and on the lead to the white valve.
3.Install a copper T with short leads to the red, white valves and the coupling on the PRV side.
4. Solder.

If you want to replace the two shut off valves with 1/4 turn valves (what I would so), cut them off, put couplings on lead pipes and finish as above.

If you want the outside water to have reduced pressure, relocate the PRV to just above the red valve.

Out of curiosity, by 1/4 turn valves do you mean ball valves?

dj1
Re: Correcting water in connection

With the newer information, this is what you want to do (assuming that you know how to solder):

1. Shut off the main water line at the meter.
2. Cut the following: bellow the red valve, above the white valve and above the coupling on the left pipe.
3. Install a new 1/4 turn valve (ball valve) on the incoming pipe from the floor. Turn the main on and check for leaks at this valve. Not leaking? shut it off and continue...
4. Install a short pipe on this valve and attach the PRV.
5. Install a pipe off the PRV, then a T - then connect the house pipe (on the left) to the T.
6. Install a second 1/4 turn valve on the pipe that leads to the outside.
7. check for leaks.

Not sure? save time, money and nerves - hire a plumber.

dj1
Re: Correcting water in connection

Almost forgot: you have shut off valves with drain screws. Get new 1/4 turn valves with drain screws. If you can't find them, install faucets just above them, for drainage purposes.

OldHomeNoob
Re: Correcting water in connection
dj1 wrote:

Almost forgot: you have shut off valves with drain screws. Get new 1/4 turn valves with drain screws. If you can't find them, install faucets just above them, for drainage purposes.

I was wondering what those screws were for! What's the purpose of having drains for these valves?

OldHomeNoob
Re: Correcting water in connection

Updates!

I still haven't tackled this project :(. Other remodeling tasks got in the way and now I'm circling back.

I'm having a sprinkler system put in the yard and the contractor needs to tap into the water line. After talking to him he needs to get access to the 3/4" line for the sprinkler system. I told him I'd attempt to "fix" the plumbing so that it was ready for him to connect to. After looking at the current arrangement again I'm think I have a plan but I'd like to get some feedback.

Here is what I have now (diagram and photos):

Current Photos

Here is my proposed revised layout:

Another alternative I have is to find a way to re-configure the plumbing in the meter pit so that there is a pressure regulator before the meter, but I suspect this will be complex at best.

I'm also worried that changing the connection on the soft copper coming in from the street is going to be a pain since I'm not sure what I will find when I remove the old threaded brass connector. I assume I can't unsolder it, clean and then resolder a new 3/4" male threaded connector?

Thanks for your help!

dj1
Re: Correcting water in connection

Thanks for the updates. Renovations are sometimes complicated, time consuming and expensive, we know that. Just do little at a time.

- Don't mix copper with galvanized. Remove and replace all galvanized parts in there. Brass can stay.

- A stub out for a sprinkler system should be before the main water supply enters the house. Don't forget to install a shut off valve on the stub out. Also, what's the pressure at the meter?

- How far is it from the house to the water meter in the street? I'll tell you why I'm asking: I don't like it to be type K copper. I rather have type L copper.

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