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coping crown molding in square room

Every instructional article or video I see always includes an outside corner, ie not a square room.

How would I install coped crown molding in a square room with 4 inside corners? My problem is that I think I would run into trouble with the last piece. If one end is butt and the other is coped how would you ever fit this piece in?

Would you leave the coped end of the next to last piece loose enough so that you could spring it enough to fit in the butt end of the last piece?

Re: coping crown molding in square room

with coped joints, the square end doesnt have to be tight as the coped joint will overlap it hiding that gap

with the closing piece which finishes the room it needs to be tight. if you cut it short just cut it back 2 or 3 stud spacings and scarf joint it.. get the cope nice and tight fitting then mark the location of the scarf joint on the other end and have that joint nice and tight

if your using mdf just mitre the corners, mdf is too soft a material to try and cope.if its stain grade most definitely cope it

Re: coping crown molding in square room

The first piece will have two butt ends, and the last piece will have two coped ends. Cut it just a tad long so it springs tightly into place.

Re: coping crown molding in square room

Thanks for the answers. I had considered the scarfed joint but not the double coped piece.

I have pine molding and it copes well. I tried miter joints on a previous room. I was not pleased because the top of the joint against the ceiling was open. The corner measured 90 degrees and I mitered at 45 with the piece upside down in the miter saw. I'm not sure why some of the joints weren't tight. I wasn't too pleased with having to use caulk to hide it, so I thought I'd try something new.

Re: coping crown molding in square room

In a rectangular room, my preference is two square-cut short-side pieces and two double-coped longer-side pieces. Measure to make the coped ones fit tight! That seems to give me the best fit with the least work, and by coping the longer pieces they are easier to 'bow' during installation than the short ones would be. I never joint a run unless it's over the lumber length as you can never make a joint 'disappear' completely in the finished product. Better to not have it in the first place.


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