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Smooveg
Chandelier wiring

Thanks in advance for helping out an electrical novice.

I recently needed to take town a 5-arm chandelier in order to repaint. When reinstalling I replaced some clear appliance wire with new 18/2 lamp wire, but nothing works when the circuit is back on.

When using a continuity tester on the bare ends of the new lamp wire I get a faint glow but certainly not as bright as when battery-testing the continuity tester itself.

I'm certain I do not have the wires crossed, but maybe to I need a larger gauge wire?

Also, there is a bare ground inside the chandelier that I was not sure if it would be affected because of the paint (standard Rustoleum metal spray paint).

Thank you!

JLMCDANIEL
Re: Chandelier wiring

Not knowing what you did makes it very difficult to provide much help. First remove all the lamps and check continuity from the bare end of the wire to the center button in the lamp holders. The one the shows full continuity is the hot wire, and the one that shows full continuity to the threaded part if the lamp socket is the neutral. If either one doesn't show full continuity then you have a poor connection in your new wiring.
Jack

canuk
Re: Chandelier wiring
Smooveg wrote:

Thanks in advance for helping out an electrical novice.

I recently needed to take town a 5-arm chandelier in order to repaint. When reinstalling I replaced some clear appliance wire with new 18/2 lamp wire, but nothing works when the circuit is back on.

When using a continuity tester on the bare ends of the new lamp wire I get a faint glow but certainly not as bright as when battery-testing the continuity tester itself.

I'm certain I do not have the wires crossed, but maybe to I need a larger gauge wire?

Also, there is a bare ground inside the chandelier that I was not sure if it would be affected because of the paint (standard Rustoleum metal spray paint).

Thank you!

Ditto to what Jack posted.

To add --- the problem hasen't anything to do with the gage of wire.

Check that all five wires from the "button" ( bottom of the socket ) all terminate together at the same point ( so as to keep them connected in parallel )--- same with all five wires from the socket body ( the threaded portion ).

Lamp cord will have one conductor's covering ribbed and/or writing or markings of some sort -- the other conductor will be smooth and unmarked.This helps with joining all wires correctly and maintaing proper polarity.

Use the ribbed/marked conductor as the neutral connection at the junction box and tie all the wires from the socket body ( threaded ) to this wire as well.

Tie all the wires from the "button" ( base of the sockets ) to the unmarked conductor which will connect to the hot in the junction box.

The ground wire won't have anything to do with the lamp fixture not working. However , ensure the connection of the ground wire at the metal body of the lamp is clear of any paint ( clear metal ).

Smooveg
Re: Chandelier wiring

So with both of your help I've been able to produce the following results:

1) All 5 lamp sockets have continuity to the new wiring (hot and neutral)

2) New lamp wire is still good with no shorts

3) The entire fixture has continuity through the new lamp wire (testing the hot and neutral separately, and then the entire circuit by connecting the bare ends of the lamp wire and both ends of the continuity tester together)

So I think the chandelier is wired fine, but it's also on a dimmer. With the temporary fixture up I put a LED bulb in. The dimmer can turn the LED on/off fine. When I put a regular 60W bulb in though, there is no light and of course no dimming. As a side note, the other switches and fixtures work fine with the power restored and the temporary fixture OR the chandelier.

Is this an indicator that I simply need a new switch?

Thank you again -- I hope I have given enough information for a diagnosis!

canuk
Re: Chandelier wiring
Smooveg wrote:

So with both of your help I've been able to produce the following results:

1) All 5 lamp sockets have continuity to the new wiring (hot and neutral)

2) New lamp wire is still good with no shorts

3) The entire fixture has continuity through the new lamp wire (testing the hot and neutral separately, and then the entire circuit by connecting the bare ends of the lamp wire and both ends of the continuity tester together)

So I think the chandelier is wired fine, but it's also on a dimmer. With the temporary fixture up I put a LED bulb in. The dimmer can turn the LED on/off fine. When I put a regular 60W bulb in though, there is no light and of course no dimming. As a side note, the other switches and fixtures work fine with the power restored and the temporary fixture OR the chandelier.

Is this an indicator that I simply need a new switch?

Thank you again -- I hope I have given enough information for a diagnosis!

I would say yes.
Chances are if you were to wire up a standard light swith , everything would work fine.
The dimmer obviously can't handle the current draw of the 60 watt bulbs --- which it should --- by comparison the LED light draws only a fraction of current.

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