Home>Discussions>KITCHENS>Building Frameless Cabinets/Need Affirmation
6 posts / 0 new
Last post
ideagenius
Building Frameless Cabinets/Need Affirmation
ideagenius

Hello Everybody
I've been researching how to build your own frameless kitchen cabinets, full overlay, and have come across alot of information. I'm doing this o the tiniest of budget and I already have the cabinet doors, so I'm building around the doors. I plan on using 3/4 plywood for the sides with 1/2 plywood back. I'll put hanging strip along the back, upper and lower, and brace aroung the upper edges of the base, because i'm putting a granite tile countertop on.

I have a circular saw, router, glue, nail gun, and alot of naivity.

Does anyone have any "if only i knew this..." stories to pass along? Thanks in advance.

A. Spruce
Re: Building Frameless Cabinets/Need Affirmation
A. Spruce

It's not impossible to build cabinets with those tools, but getting a good, accurate cut from the circular saw will be tough. You may need to cut slightly proud of the line, then dress the edge with the router. You will need to cover the cut edge of the cabinets with either a wood strip or glue on edge band. 3/4" sides and 1/2" back sound fine.

ideagenius
Re: Building Frameless Cabinets/Need Affirmation
ideagenius

Thanks Spruce, I needed that reassurance. I presume you would recommend a table saw for more accurate cuts?

Is there a reason to have a toe kick at 4 or 5 inches, as opposed to 2 or 3 inches. It seems like a waste of space to have that much room to get your toes under the cabinets. There shouldn't be a problem, that I'm aware of, to putting my toe-kick at 2 1/2 or 3 inches, right?

bp21901
Re: Building Frameless Cabinets/Need Affirmation
bp21901

Yes, a good quality tablesaw, and a good fence system, would give a much better and repeatable cut than a circ saw. What size nail gun do you have, 16 gauge?

ideagenius
Re: Building Frameless Cabinets/Need Affirmation
ideagenius

Okay on the table saw. I don't have one, but the inlaws do.

The nail gun is a 16 ga. finish nailer. On the 3/4 sides, I plan on routing out a 1/2 groove (dado?) about 1/2 from the back of the panel, then glueing and nailing. Then I'll put in a 1/2 nailer strip at the top and bottom, for added support on the upper cabinets.

On the front of the side panels, I've never worked with an iron on wood veneer. Is this stuff easy to work with, i.e. put on, trim, paint, and does it stay on and hold up to cleaning well?

I really do appreciate the responses, it is very comforting and it eases my wife's mind as well when she sees other people have no problems with my strategy!

A. Spruce
Re: Building Frameless Cabinets/Need Affirmation
A. Spruce

Yes, I highly recommend a tablesaw for this project and buy a good blade for it, it will make all the difference in the quality of cut and accuracy of straight lines.

Rabbeting the back of the cabinet to accept the back panel is the best/strongest method of installation. There should be a 1x3 along the top back edge to act as a nailer (base cabinets ). Finish off the top of the carcass with a dust frame, this will give torsional stability to the cabinet as well as anchoring areas for the countertop.

Toe kicks are generally 3-1'2" x 2-1/2 to 3". Much less than that and you'd be surprised how much you'll stub your toes as you approach the cabinet. Also, depth of toe kick is important too, if it's too shallow then you'll be forced to stand back away from the cabinet while you're working, increasing back and leg strain exponentially.

Sponsored Stories

TV Listings

Find TV listings for This Old House and Ask This Old House in your area.