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Norfleet
Bought 1970 house - basement crawlspace is beginning to look more worrisome.

I sent this to TOH experts but maybe some of you can give repair advice to one poor enough that they must both do the work themselves and save for the repair materials?

+++ anyway my question...

I live now in a house since April that has a cinder-block crawl space that's almost tall enough to be a basement. It leaks and the back wall has buckled not quite to be real scary but it's like I can't afford to hire someone I will need to makeup a fix.

I've attached pictures and I don't remember the 'open' cracks when I inspected September 2013. I knew there was a small leak but it seems to have worsened. The lady that sold the house said the leak started 2 years ago but you can tell work was done in the 1970s to stop leaks.

To Fix:

First I think I need to somehow put 2 re-bar for each cinder block into the concrete floor and then basically double up the original cinder-block wall. Then I think it would be wise to fill the gap between the two walls with some type of concrete.

I made this fix up as sort of a reverse of what I read was usually done as that seems to have already been done here some time ago. Yay or nay?

Also, I need to carve 2 or 3 'streams' in the basement floor to a shower drain in the front of the house crawlspace / basement. How? I have a set of hand stone chisels to make streams but that's a lot of work.

Hmmm...TOH Website says image file are not valid. Maybe too big...at any rate it's an image of a partially buckled cinder block basement wall.

Wonder if those walls already have re-bar embedded in those 2 holes each cinder block has as reinforcement. Does anyone know how such walls are built? Is re-bar used to reinforce? I know the driveway has lots of re-bar in it, a Zircon Stud Finder found it when we was testing quartz for **** (went **** panning in Tennessee).

I wonder why the word **** is censored?

Thanks.

OK, I'm trying links to the files on PhotoBucket:

1) Rear northwest corner of basement. You can tell it has had work to stop leaking before, probably in the 70s. The lady the house was bought from lived here 10 years and said it started leaking 2 years ago (again).

http://s46.photobucket.com/user/Norfleet5/media/1_zpse30034bc.jpg.html?sort=3&o=3

2) Middle section of south rear cinder block basement wall. I think the leak restarted or worsening in the past two years because soil dried from a 2 decade drought is again very wet and expanded again because of that in the past 5 years.

http://s46.photobucket.com/user/Norfleet5/media/2_zps35682e2f.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2

3) Southeast basement rear wall. I think these cracks are new since I inspected the walls September 2013. I knew there was a leak the lady told me. I'd like a re-bar cage by drilling the floor edge along the wall, one for each cinderblock hole (2 holes per cinder block - about 60 re-bar altogether along the back wall) & standing re-bar though cinderblock & fill with concrete. I'm not sure but maybe I do this around the entire basement along the house side walls and front wall have no buckle in them at all. I would feel more comfortable because I don't know if they embedded any re-bar in the original basement walls although given the buckle in the rear wall maybe they did as it's still standing. There is all kinds of re-bar in the concrete driveway. They were skimping but this is karst a well known karst area with lots of underground water flow through limestone.

http://s46.photobucket.com/user/Norfleet5/media/3_zps808ef8d3.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1

4) Wettest part of the floor. I need to create, somehow, covered 'creeks' in the floor that lead to shower drain in northwest basement house corner.

http://s46.photobucket.com/user/Norfleet5/media/4_zpsd4445062.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

Jeanne
Re: Bought 1970 house - basement crawlspace is beginning to look more worrisome.

Well – I can’t help with the basement wall – I will let one of the expert construction guys do that and answers will come in over a couple of days, but I can answer your other questions. It is best to upload your photo to a site like Photobucket and then link it in your question. The guys will appreciate a photo.

Some words are censored because they are commonly used in spamming forums. Check your question in the “preview post” and if your word is censored (and you are not swearing) try separating the letters like go ld. We will get your meaning.

Norfleet
Re: Bought 1970 house - basement crawlspace is beginning to look more worrisome.

Thanks very much. I will post all 4 pictures. I forget about the forex and metal exchanges being 'advise' spam magnets.

JLMCDANIEL
Re: Bought 1970 house - basement crawlspace is beginning to look more worrisome.

The best way to fix a bowing foundation wall short of a rebuild is a wall anchor system. Here is a description
http://www.jesbasementsystems.com/jesanchors.html

I'm not sure if they are available for DIYers.
From your Pix it looks like you have a serious water problem, I would suggest you consider installing some outside drainage system to carry the water away from the foundation, and possibly install a sump well with a sump pump. That will carry water away from under the slab.

Jack

Norfleet
Re: Bought 1970 house - basement crawlspace is beginning to look more worrisome.
JLMCDANIEL wrote:

The best way to fix a bowing foundation wall short of a rebuild is a wall anchor system. Here is a description
http://www.jesbasementsystems.com/jesanchors.html

I'm not sure if they are available for DIYers.
From your Pix it looks like you have a serious water problem, I would suggest you consider installing some outside drainage system to carry the water away from the foundation, and possibly install a sump well with a sump pump. That will carry water away from under the slab.

Jack

Thanks, looking at the illustration I could do that myself easier than my suggested solution however in my situation at least their technique actually would eventually increase inward buckling pressure on my wall.

I agree with the water problem. I need to clean all the water up and paint the walls and floor a light color that changes color with dampness so I can more easily all the origins of the water. I think in general it is seeping down slowly all along the buckled wall and puddling and running down the floor once the puddle gets deep enough.

Also in the last 3 weeks there the dampness and humidity has increased enough to cause some type of cottony white fungus or mold to grow. As I set after decades of borderline drought conditions it is as now as wet in Kentucky as I remember as a child visiting if not wetter. Water set free from the polar regions via global warning? Who knows, but the past 5 years are definitely cooler and wetter here in Kentucky.

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