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Gizmo
Re: Bead board installation question
JLMCDANIEL wrote:

Sophie, if it were me I would put the 2 X 4 blocking ever 8 to 12 inches and be sure to seal all 6 sides of the bead board before installing.

Jack

Im with Jack on this one. Ive done it a few times in the past. I even installed tyvek I had laying around behind the WC Paneling

SophieC
Re: Bead board installation question
JLMCDANIEL wrote:

Sophie, if it were me I would put the 2 X 4 blocking ever 8 to 12 inches and be sure to seal all 6 sides of the bead board before installing.

Jack

I'm Back!!!:D

Jack.........do I need to seal the other 5 sides with paint as well, or is one coat of primer enough?

jkirk
Re: Bead board installation question

answering for jack, the primer is all you need as long as it is a sealer quality primer. the primer will seal the wood and grab the finish coat of paint. the finish paint just has to go on the face of the wainscotting, dont forget to touch up any cut edges though with paint to keep it sealed

SophieC
Re: Bead board installation question

OK guys....resurrecting an old thread, but I figured it would be OK since my new post is about this very topic!:)

I am almost ready to start putting in the beadboard (not the panel type). Yes, I'm very slow at this. :oIs it best to start in a corner or at the edge of a doorway? Do you measure and do the math so that you end up with the 2 boards at both ends being the same width? Once you get the first board level (vertically) is it necessary to check each one after that before you nail it in? I've never installed beadboard before, so any and all advice is appreciated.

Sombreuil_mongrel
Re: Bead board installation question
SophieC wrote:

OK guys....resurrecting an old thread, but I figured it would be OK since my new post is about this very topic!:)

I am almost ready to start putting in the beadboard (not the panel type). Yes, I'm very slow at this. :oIs it best to start in a corner or at the edge of a doorway? Do you measure and do the math so that you end up with the 2 boards at both ends being the same width? Once you get the first board level (vertically) is it necessary to check each one after that before you nail it in? I've never installed beadboard before, so any and all advice is appreciated.

Hi Sophie.
T&G beadboard is nailed through the tongues. So if you're a RH'ed person, it's easier to work it from left to right. It is possible to break a pattern (especially above a door where it's less noticeable) and run in both directions. It involves being able to do some woodworking to recreate one missing bead (from laying two groove edges next to each other) or live with the missing bead.
When you begin, sort through the material and find the very straightest boards for the first courses. I would check with a level and a tape measure every five courses to see if I was running off.
Having just finished restoring an old structure that was four rooms of floor to ceiling beadboard walls (the ceilings, too) I have handled a lot of it; and I answered under the assumption that you are in a full-wall scenario. If you're just wainscotting, then, absolutely, run it from the door casings in either direction, and make up the difference in the last board inside the corner, then start with a full board (scribed to be plumb) for the subsequent wall.
Casey

SophieC
Re: Bead board installation question

Hi Casey....

Thanks for your response. Nope, not doing a full wall of beadboard.....just a high wainscot. When you said run from the doorway to the corner and make up the difference in the corner.....I'm guessing you mean that the last board in the corner may end up having to be cut to fit, yes? Should I run the 2 walls with doors (longer walls) and then run the 2 shorter walls? When I start the outside wall (the one with the window), do I cut the groove off of the first board?

I understand your suggestion of checking every 5 boards or so with a level, but I'm not sure what it is I'm checking with the tape measure. Can you explain?

SophieC
Re: Bead board installation question

OK, I tried to include a picture with that last post and it's not there. How does this work now? I used to be able to link to my photobucket account....that didn't work. When I tried the insert image from computer, that didn't work either.

SophieC
Re: Bead board installation question

OK, got it figured out. You can see there are 2 doors into the bathroom across from each other. There will be no beadboard in the corner as the doors end in the corner. There is only room there for the door trim. So the beadboard will go from door opening into the corner of the outside wall on both sides.

Sombreuil_mongrel
Re: Bead board installation question
SophieC wrote:

Hi Casey....

Thanks for your response. Nope, not doing a full wall of beadboard.....just a high wainscot. When you said run from the doorway to the corner and make up the difference in the corner.....I'm guessing you mean that the last board in the corner may end up having to be cut to fit, yes? Should I run the 2 walls with doors (longer walls) and then run the 2 shorter walls? When I start the outside wall (the one with the window), do I cut the groove off of the first board?

I understand your suggestion of checking every 5 boards or so with a level, but I'm not sure what it is I'm checking with the tape measure. Can you explain?

Hi,
You're on target. The tape measure is a way of seeing if you are keeping parallel with where you started and if you will be parallel with where you will end up. With individual boards, it's possible to be off unintentionally, and to intentionally get back to parallel at the last board to avoid a tapered piece. You can make very small adjustments with each piece to achieve parallel, even if that means getting slightly out of plumb, if the walls aren't themselves plumb.

Casey

Mastercarpentry
Re: Bead board installation question

Agreed with above. I just did a similar install (with the thin stuff over sheetrock) 2 days ago in a new home. I had a heck of a time explaining to my co-worker why his ideas about absolute plumbness were irrelevant- I still don't believe he understands. If the existing edges look plumb enough then you simply follow them. Even my experienced eye cannot see something a little out-of-plumb but a taper jumps out at you and will be seen, so that the idea is to avoid tapers moreso than obtaining perfect plumbness. Even in this brand-new home had we followed plumb we would have had a visible taper at both ends and in every corner!

The corners or ends are best handled by measuring the space which will be left after the last full width board is in place and deciding whether it needs to be split into half that on both ends or if it will look better in one piece. Also keep in mind before you start that you can change that a little shorter by running the adjoining wall first (so long as it doesn't cause the same issue there). This is all about aesthetics, and a little about practicality as you notch under windows (or on a full-length install around doors too). In those cases, you can often avoid an excessively narrow rip by shifting out of one corner a little (so long as it will still look good elsewhere). One thing not discussed here yet that I always do with these is to use a urethane glue (liquid nails is one) underneath the boards. Blocking at or under 16" centers will do for support, and I'd be sure it was tucked under the sheetrock on the wall above to support it's lower edge as well.

Firecode may insist there be sheetrock underneath. Practicality says that if a fire is so hot that it burns through 3/4" of wood then it wasn't going to be stopped for much longer by the 1/2" sheetrock on the wall above this. I do know that your insurer will care if you need to make a claim, and if an inspector is involved then it must be done by code. How you handle legalities is up to you, perhaps you're not pulling a permit for this and you'd claim that the wainscot was there when you purchased the house if the insurer didn't have pics or a written report saying otherwise. I wouldn't see this as a substantial hazard and that it's up to you to keep you legal, not me. All I can recommend here is that you know and follow current code where you're at- it's there to protect you.

Phil

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