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baseboard heat

I own a ranch 1400sq.ft. Planning to add 1000sq.ft. by adding 2nd floor. Have baseboard heat want to extend pipes to 2nd floor. How much BTU per room live in MA. Will come up with pipes in one place loop around outside walls and drop down the same place to the basement. Will I need to install exp. joints unions bleeders. How hard is it to install new boiler(me background cornice worker)can solder well.

Re: baseboard heat


I don't understand when you say "adding a second floor".

Do you mean you will rip off the roof and install a 2nd floor, & then rebuild the roof??

Or do you mean you will modify your present attic??

That's a lot of area to add.

In many cases the town would not allow such a renovation if the plat has mostly single-family, single floor houses.

Could you advise how big your boiler is now, or the brand & model number??

This is usually stamped on the front of the boiler.

A heat loss calculation would have to be done to get the right size for a new boiler.

A rough estimate is to take the total square footage and multiply by a factor number between 30 and 40, depending on how well-insulated your house is, & the tightness of the windows, etc.

Thus: 2400 X 30 = 72,000 btu/hr for boiler size; or 2400 X 40 = 96,000 btu/hr.

For the 2nd floor 1000 sq.ft. X 30 = 30,000 btu per hour/550 (amount of heat each foot of baseboard puts out/hour) = approx. 55 feet of baseboard needed for 2nd floor @ $6/ft. = ~$330 for just the baseboard.

These are very rough estimates.

Best way to extend the 2nd floor HW heat would be to use zone valves, which would give you a separate thermostat on 1st floor & 2nd floor for better comfort, or better, 2 zone valves & 2 t-stats for each floor.

PEX plastic with brass fittings is widely used these days instead of copper due to the very high price of copper now; you would have to price-compare for the best way to go.

Do you have an indirect hot water heater for the taps???

Do you plan to install air conditioning as well??

Mass. requires you have a HVAC license in order to install a boiler.

A wide number of safety devices such as a firomatic thermal switch, firomatic oil control valve, backflow preventer, low water cutoff, etc. have to be installed.

The complexity of the piping, controls, placement & removal of old unit usually favors hiring a contractor or oil dealer to do this part of the project.

You can save a lot of $$$ if you do the DISTRIBUTION portion (baseboard, zone valves, associated piping, etc.) & have the contractor do just the boiler.



Re: baseboard heat

that was just done for my house as long as your boiler is not that old it's probably big enough to do the job save your money and put central air in. I FORGOT THAT FOR MYSELF WOULD HAVE BEEN EASIER WITH WALLS OPEN
good luck

Re: baseboard heat

pomer is wrong, jack is right.

How pomer can make a blind statement like "the present boiler is probably big enough" without knowing the size of the boiler--------- is just plain nonsense.

Consider also the DHW btu/hr load.

Unless the old boiler is TWICE as large as it should be-------- it'll never work.

Winters get pretty cold in Massachusetts-----everyone in the house will freeze their butts off------- and there won't be any hot water to boot.

It's always best to wait for the OP to provide the requested info --------- before making inaccurate comments.

Re: baseboard heat

I agree with dobbs...unless the size of the boiler is known and a heat loss calculation is done, any advice given will be inaccurate.

jack asked for boiler size and other pertinent information from the OP so that a more informed recommendation could be given.

Re: baseboard heat
pomer wrote:

as long as your boiler is not that old it's probably big enough to do the job save your money

That's a big maybe ... I don't know if you can base things on that statement.

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