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George Saridakis
Balancing heat pump and forced hot water heating
George Saridakis

The data:

1. 2 two story (900 square feet per story) house built in 1978 with an oil burner furnace and forced hot water baseboard heaters located northwest of Boston
2. Programmable thermostats for the furnace
3. Recently added additional blown in cellulose insulation in walls and 12” of cellulose insulation in attic
4. Recently replaced old windows with Andersen renewal windows
5. We have a hot water tank heated by the oil furnace
6. Recently added (2) Mitsubishi 15K hyper heat pump systems (mini splits) on the first and second floors and a Mitsubishi 9K hyper heat pump in the unfinished basement
7. As part of a kitchen remodeling project, we are planning to remove about 12 feet of baseboard heat in the adjacent family room and add several toe-kick heaters to desk areas about 30 feet from the mini-splits
8. The mini-splits can be directed to blow hot air into the family room

The questions:
1. Should we set our oil furnace thermostats at 55 to prevent frozen pipes and then adjust the heat pump temperature settings for our comfort level?
2.Are there pipe temperature sensors for the forced hot water piping which could be used to alert us to issues?
3.Do we really need the toe kick heaters and if so, should we get electric or forced hot water toe-kick heaters?
4.Any other issues we should be aware of?

Thanks,
George

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