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In this video, Richard Trethewey demonstrates how to replace a bathroom faucet.
Steps for Replacing a Bathroom Faucet:
Before you start, know what type of faucet to buy. According to This Old House Magazine, after you remove the old faucet, measure from center to center on the two outer holes. If that distance is 6 inches or more, you can install a wide-spread faucet, which requires manually connecting the two valves to the spout. Faucets designed for holes closer together, called centerset or mini-spread faucets, typically come as a single pre-assembled unit that drops right in.
- Shut off water by hand or with a specialty wrench. Be careful not to over torque.
- Use a pan or rag to catch any dripping water under the sink. Turn on the faucet to relieve any water pressure left in the lines.
- Disconnect the supply lines from the faucet. Use a multi-purpose plumbing tool if you cannot reach it by hand.
- Remove the old faucet.
- Place Plumber’s Putty around the bottom of the faucet to make a watertight connection. It should fill in any imperfection of the sink.
- Place the faucet through the mounting holes in the sink and tighten the nuts.
- Remove the excess putty.
- Install the lift rod.
Resources:
Richard installed a Glacier Bay 4 in Centerset 2-Handle Low-Arc Bathroom Faucet, which can be found at The Home Depot. The plumber’s putty and wrench sets Richard used can be found at any home center.
The specialty faucet wrench Richard used to break the connections underneath the sink is an EZ Change Faucet Tool, which is manufactured by Rigid.
To ensure no water seeps below the faucet’s base plate and causes damage to the vanity, Richard applies a bead of plumber’s putty around the mounting flange before setting the faucet in place. For tightening the mounting nuts in the tight space beneath the sink, he relies on a specialty tool designed to fit that specific nut, allowing him to snug everything up without straining in cramped quarters.
Pro Tip: Richard Trethewey, This Old House plumbing and heating expert, emphasizes that one thing is “really important before you do any of this work, and that is to shut the water off.” He notes that any shutoff valve will close with “righty tighty, lefty loosey,” and if you can’t turn it by hand, a wrench designed to fit over the end of the shutoff can help — but warns to “be careful not to over-torque on old work,” since the pipe may not be well secured behind the wall.
