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In this video, Ask This Old House general contractor Tom Silva removes an old attic staircase and replaces it with a new one.
Planning Tip: Before purchasing a replacement attic staircase, carefully measure the existing rough opening in the ceiling framing. Attic stair units come in standard sizes, but older homes may have non-standard openings that require trimming or reframing. As with any project where you’re opening up framing, you won’t always know what you’ll find until you remove the old unit — so budget extra time for unexpected adjustments to the header or joists.
Steps for Replacing Attic Stairs:
- Measure the rough opening of the attic staircase and match it to find a suitable replacement.
- Remove the springs from the old attic staircase by bending the metal arms forward to release the tension.
- Using a reciprocating saw, cut off the metal hinges of the staircase.
- Also cut off the nails that hold the staircase to the structure opening.
- Carefully lower the staircase from the opening and remove it.
- Place the new staircase into the opening and gently set it down on the trim. Be careful to make sure the trim is able to hold the staircase. If not, a second person may need to hold the staircase in place.
- Center the staircase in the opening using shims.
- Using a driver, fasten the staircase to the structure opening.
- With the staircase secure, lower the stairs halfway to the floor.
- Attic staircases need to be cut to match the height of your home’s ceiling. To do this, use one scrap piece of wood, hold it tight to one side of the staircase until it touches the floor.
- Make a mark on the end closet to the staircase; that is your length.
- Flip the piece of scrap wood clockwise and line it up to the bottom against the second piece of scrap wood. Bring the tip up to the edge and make a mark. That’s the angle.
- Cut the angle on the marked piece of scrap wood with a jigsaw.
- Extend the staircase.
- Flip the piece of scrap wood so the pointed edge at the bottom is touching the staircase.
- Match the length mark on the piece of scrap wood to the joint of the staircase.
- Mark the length on the staircase to the bottom edge of the piece of scrap wood.
- To mark the angle on the staircase, flip the piece of scrap wood so the pointed edge is facing at an upward angle.
- Repeat the measuring steps on the second side.
- Cut both sides with a reciprocating saw.
- To install the attic-stair cover, place the sheet over the opening.
- Use staple gun to attach the cover to the structure.
Safety First: This Old House general contractor Tom Silva knows firsthand how dangerous a faulty attic stair can be. After a loose screw let go and a spring popped while he was halfway up a folding attic stair, Tom crashed to the floor and broke his foot, spending six months on crutches. His advice: “An attic stair is a ladder. You wouldn’t use a broken ladder, and you definitely shouldn’t use a broken attic stair. Replace or repair it immediately.”
Removal Tip: When cutting the nails that hold the old staircase to the framing, use a metal cutting blade on your reciprocating saw. As Tom Silva explains on a This Old House project, cutting the nails rather than prying them allows the piece to come out much easier. Before pulling the staircase away, score the trim with a utility knife so it won’t rip the drywall or damage the plaster below.
Getting the Right Fit: Before purchasing a replacement, take at least three critical measurements: the width and length of the rough opening, and the ceiling height. Measure the rough opening’s width and length in three different spots, at the top and bottom of the framing. Choose a stair that fits into the smallest of these measurements and is long enough for your ceiling height. For a folding or sliding stair in a closet or other tight space, you also need to measure how much swing clearance and landing length the stair will need when lowered—leave at least 24 inches in front of the stairs.



