Ask This Old House

Repairing a rotting wooden support post

Tom helped a homeowner repair a rotting post that supports the roof of her garage. Because the rot was so extensive, he determined that the entire post needed to be replaced. Tom started by temporarily supporting the roof with a 2x6 brace. Next, he removed the exterior trim and cut away the old, rotted post with a reciprocating saw. He then removed the old post and the rotting trim covering it. Next, he filled a small hole on the garage floor where the old post was with some fast-setting concrete. Before the concrete cured completely, Tom inserted a galvanized steel post base to keep the new post from being in direct contact with the concrete, which can cause more rotting. Next, Tom installed a new 4x6 pressure-treated post on the steel base and fastened it into place. He then repaired the jambs next to the new 4x6 post with new 2x4's and fastened them securely to the post. Finally, Tom covered all the exposed framing with new PVC trim.

Where to find it?

All of the tools and materials for this project, including pressure-treated lumber, fast-setting concrete, steel post bases and PVC trim can all be found at your local home center or lumberyard.

What is it?

The guys try to guess the intended purpose of an unusual-looking product. Richard showed a small transmitting device that can be flushed down a drainpipe. It is used for finding underground drain lines and septic systems.

Where to find it?

NaviTrack FloatSonde®
Manufacturer: RIDGID
1-800-4-RIDGID
www.ridgid.com

Installing a dry well to collect discharge water from a sump pump

Roger helped a pair of homeowners who had a sump pump that was discharging water directly outside of their home's foundation, which created a wet, muddy area next to the house. To collect the discharge water and divert it away from the house, Roger suggested installing a dry well. First, he dug a hole for the dry well away from the house, and a trench for a 1-1/2" PVC drainpipe to take the discharge water from the house to the dry well. In the hole for the dry well, Roger poured several inches of crushed stone to help the water leach out. Next, he lined the hole with filter fabric to keep soil and sediment out of the crushed stone. With the pipe in the trench, Roger connected the pipe to the drywell and connected a "pop-up" drain on top of the dry well, which allows excess water to escape in case the dry well gets too full. Finally, Roger backfilled the hole and trench with soil and the installation was complete.

Where to find it?

FLO-WELL
Manufacturer: NDS
851 N. Harvard Ave.
Lindsay, CA 93247
1-800-726-1994
www.ndspro.com