Step 9: Drill larger holes in the rails.

Tom Silva uses a paddle bit to enlarge the pilot holes to the size of the baluster pins
Photo: Anthony Tieuli
«»
For the bottom rail, use a paddle bit to enlarge the pilot holes to the size of the baluster pins; ours were ¾ inch wide and 1 inch deep. Do the same for the top rail, which will hold the tops of the balusters; the holes in our top rail were inch wide and 1 inch deep.
Ask TOH users about Furniture

Contribute to This Story Below

    Tools List

    • 16-foot tape measure
      Measuring tape
    • hammer
      Hammer
    • elastic tape
      Elastic tape for spacing out the balusters. Get one roll.
    • speed square
      Triangular layout square
    • drill
      Drill/driver
    • miter saw
      Miter saw
    • 3/8-inch spade bit
      Paddle bits sized to your balusters. (Ours were inch and inch.)
    • mallet
      Mallet
    • two-foot level
      Level or straightedge
    • sandpaper
      220-grit sandpaper

    Shopping List

    Wood newel posts. Get two.

    Pin-top wood balusters. Get as many as you need to span the width of your headboard. Safety codes require that they be spaced no more than 4 inches apart, so do the math before you buy, and consider getting a few extra ones as insurance. (We used 14 for a queen-size headboard.) Make sure the balusters have round pins at the bottom for attaching to the bottom rail.

    Handrails. Get two—one for the top rail and one for the bottom rail. Pick a bottom rail that has a fillet, a thin, removable strip of wood that you'll use as a template for making holes in both rails.

    Brads

    6-inch timber screws for adding the end posts. We used Headlok screws, which require a special drill bit (included).

    Wood glue

    Primer and paint (or stain and sealer)