Step 12: Cut Out the Notches

Mark Powers cuts notches into the crosspiece boards for the structure of the hypertufa table with a jigsaw
Photo: Wendell T. Webber
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Refer to the overview diagram. You'll cut notches on the bottom (short) edges of the stretchers and on the top (long) edges of the crosspieces. Each notch will be ¾ inch wide and will extend to half the width of the board, or 1¾ inches. (See the cut list.) Mark the notches with a scrap 1 block turned on edge, and make the cuts with a jigsaw.

Tip: Use a pencil to label the top edge of the crosspieces and the bottom edge of the stretchers so that you'll know what edges to cut the notches on.
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    Tools List

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    • miter saw
      miter saw
    • jigsaw
      jigsaw
    • drill
      drill/driver to assemble the form.
    • utility knife
      utility knife for cutting the foam.
    • aviation snip
      wire snips
    • mixing tub
      mixing tub to make the hypertufa mix.
    • masonry hoe
      hoe
    • Natural-bristle chip brush
      chip brush to spread petroleum jelly on the interior of the form before casting the tabletop.
    • finish hammer
      hammer
    • pneumatic finish nailer
      pneumatic nail gun

    Shopping List

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    1. 1x4 scrap lumber for the form.

    2. cedar 1x4s for crosspieces and stretchers.

    3. cedar 1x2s for legs and support blocks.

    4. 1¼-inch and 2-inch deck screws

    5. perlite Get two bags.

    6. peat moss Get one large bag.

    7. portland cement Get a 47-pound bag.

    8. acrylic fortifier for the hypertufa mix, to prevent cracking. 9. ¾-inch rigid-foam insulation

    10. petroleum jelly or cooking spray to coat the interior of the form.

    11. ¼-inch hardware cloth

    12. plastic sheeting to cover the form while the tabletop cures.

    13. polyurethane glue, such as Gorilla Glue.

    14. 1-inch brad nails

    15. dust mask and protective gloves