Mark Powers cuts notches into the crosspiece boards for the structure of the hypertufa table with a jigsaw
Photo: Wendell T. Webber

Step 12: Cut Out the Notches

Refer to the overview diagram. You'll cut notches on the bottom (short) edges of the stretchers and on the top (long) edges of the crosspieces. Each notch will be ¾ inch wide and will extend to half the width of the board, or 1¾ inches. (See the cut list.) Mark the notches with a scrap 1 block turned on edge, and make the cuts with a jigsaw.

Tip: Use a pencil to label the top edge of the crosspieces and the bottom edge of the stretchers so that you'll know what edges to cut the notches on.
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    Tools List

    • miter saw
      miter saw
    • jigsaw
    • drill
      drill/driver to assemble the form.
    • utility knife
      utility knife for cutting the foam.
    • aviation snip
      wire snips
    • mixing tub
      mixing tub to make the hypertufa mix.
    • masonry hoe
    • Natural-bristle chip brush
      chip brush to spread petroleum jelly on the interior of the form before casting the tabletop.
    • finish hammer
    • pneumatic finish nailer
      pneumatic nail gun

    Shopping List

    1. 1x4 scrap lumber for the form.

    2. cedar 1x4s for crosspieces and stretchers.

    3. cedar 1x2s for legs and support blocks.

    4. 1¼-inch and 2-inch deck screws

    5. perlite Get two bags.

    6. peat moss Get one large bag.

    7. portland cement Get a 47-pound bag.

    8. acrylic fortifier for the hypertufa mix, to prevent cracking. 9. ¾-inch rigid-foam insulation

    10. petroleum jelly or cooking spray to coat the interior of the form.

    11. ¼-inch hardware cloth

    12. plastic sheeting to cover the form while the tabletop cures.

    13. polyurethane glue, such as Gorilla Glue.

    14. 1-inch brad nails

    15. dust mask and protective gloves