Step 12: Prep for Installation

prep for installation
Photo: Kolin Smith
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To make sure that no climbing plants attach themselves to your siding, position the trellis 1 to 2 feet away from the house. This will also give you access to the back of the trellis for pruning and maintenance, and allow air to circulate to the plants.

Measure the distance between the centers of the uprights, and mark their locations on the ground. Using a posthole digger, make holes for the posts deep enough to clear the frost line. Pour 6 inches of ¾-inch gravel into the bottom of each hole for drainage. Tamp the gravel.

Pro Tip: Use tape to mark the digger's handles at the depth you want your holes to be so that you won't have to keep stopping to measure.
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    Tools List

    • circular saw
      circular saw
    • speed square
      Speed square
    • straightedge guide
      straightedge
    • combination square
      combination square
    • chisel
      chisel
    • hand saw
      handsaw
    • drill
      drill/driver
    • two-foot level
      2-foot level
    • post hole digger
      posthole digger
    • 7 foot digging bar
      digging bar
    • pointed shovel
      shovel
    • tamper
      small hand tamper

    Shopping List

    1. Cedar or pressure-treated 2x4s for the frame. Keep in mind that two adjoining trellis panels will share one vertical frame piece.

    2. Cedar or pressure-treated 1x1s for the stops that hold the lattice.3. Cedar or pressure-treated lattice fencing comes in 4-by-8-foot sheets. If you're building more than one panel, get both straight and diagonal lattice. 4. Cedar or pressure-treated 2x6—to cap the tops of the panels.

    5. ¾-inch gravel for drainage in the postholes. Four 50-pound bags will be enough.

    6. 1 5/8-inch self-tapping deck screws

    7. 3-inch self-tapping deck screws