Step 10: Check for leaks

newly installed dishwasher
Photo: Kolin Smith
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Turn on the power and water supply. Check for leaks at the water connections over the next few hours. If any appear, turn off the water and tighten the compression fittings slightly. If no leaks appear, test-run the dishwasher.
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    • drill
      Drill/driver
      fitted with 1 1/4-inch and 2-inch hole saws
    • spade bit
      1-inch spade bit
    • needlenose pliers
      Pliers
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    Shopping List

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    1. DISHWASHER
    The majority of built-in dishwashers come in only two sizes: 24 inches wide and 18 inches wide, both sized to fit under a standard 25-inch-deep and 36-inch-high counter. (Be sure to get a built-in dishwasher, not a portable one, which uses temporary connections at a sink tap and outlet.) Look for the Energy Star label on any model you buy—the criteria for dishwashers became more stringent in January 2007.

    2. 3/8-TO-½-INCH BRASS ELBOW
    to make the turn from the dishwasher's inlet to the copper supply line. This is a standard part for dishwashers and may be included in a dishwasher installation kit.

    3. TEFLON TAPE

    4. ½-INCH SOFT COPPER TUBING
    to bring water to the dishwasher. (The measurement refers to the pipe's outside diameter.) A 10-foot coil should be plenty.

    5. TWO ½-INCH COMPRESSION FITTINGS
    The number also refers to outside diameter. Each includes a brass ferrule (or compression sleeve) and a compression nut.

    6. ELECTRICAL WIRE NUTS to connect wire ends.
    Get ones that will fit two 12-gauge wires—either yellow or red.

    7. CABLE CLAMP
    to secure the electrical cable to the junction box on the dishwasher.

    8. NO. 6 HOSE CLAMP
    to attach the dishwasher's 5⁄8-inch drain hose to the sink's drain tailpiece.

    9. PLUMBER'S STRAPPING
    to hang the drain hose on the cabinet wall.