Step 9: Connect the pop-up waste assembly

connect the pop-up waste assembly
Photo: Kolin Smith
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The drain stopper and the rod that opens and closes it are part of the pop-up waste assembly. The lift rod is screwed to a metal strap with holes that hold a horizontal ball rod. The other end of the ball rod catches the bottom of the stopper. The ball fits into a hole in the drain rim and is held there by a metal nut. The stopper moves via this ball joint whenever the lift rod moves.

To assemble the pieces, slide a plastic washer, then the metal nut from the drain rim, then one side of a spring clip onto the long end of the ball rod. Stick the end of the rod through one of the holes on the strap and secure it with the spring clip. Put another washer on the short end of the ball rod and slide it into the drain rim. Hold the stopper in the drain and catch its hook with the rod. Test that the stopper opens high enough to let water out. If not, use a different hole in the strap or adjust the stopper's hook by unscrewing it.
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    Tools List

    • adjustable wrench
      Adjustable wrench
    • basin wrench
      Basin wrench,
      to reach parts under the sink
    • allen wrench set
      Allen wrenches,
      tp tighten set screws
    • tube bender
      Tube bender,
      for putting curves in rigid supply lines
    • pvc pipe cutter
      Pipe cutter
    • tongue-and-groove pliers
      Tongue-and-groove pliers,
      to turn large nuts and to hold parts steady when tightening fittings

    Shopping List

    1. FAUCET

    Most come with spout, valves, braided line to connect the valves, handles, drain collar, and pop-up waste assembly, though some valves and handles are sold separately. Look for parts made from solid brass (under the finish) or stainless steel for the best quality.



    2. 3/8-inch supply lines

    to connect the sink's valves to the water supply, either rigid or braided. Rigid supply lines (aka risers) should be used in an exposed installation, but they might need to be bent to fit, which takes some finesse. Buy three (just in case) in a chrome finish for the best appearance and in lengths longer than you need. Make sure you get the ones with an "acorn head" which becomes part of the connection to the faucet valves. You will also need to buy compression fittings. [BR] Braided-steel lines are flexible and therefor easy to install but aren't as pretty. They come in various lengths, with fittings on the ends. Make sure to buy them only slightly longer than you need, with a 3/8-inch compression fitting on one end and a 1/2-inch fitting on the other.



    3. 3/8x1/2-inch compression unions

    (if needed) to connect rigid supply lines.Get two; each should include two complete compression fittings, one 3/8-inch and one 1/2-inch, which you can cannibalize for your connections. Otherwise, get two 3/8-inch fittings and two 1/2-inch fittings separately.



    4. Clear silicone sealant

    Instead of plumber's putty, to seal gaps around the valves, spout, and drain collar. Some manufacturers warn that using plumber's putty will void their finish warranties because the oil-based product can cause damage.



    5. Teflon tape

    6. Rubbing alcohol