Step 6: Mark and cut the rigid supply line

Marking the rigid supply line with a permanent marker.
Photo: Kolin Smith
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Slide a ½-inch nut from a compression fitting onto the line and screw it loosely to the faucet valve over the acorn head. Hold the bottom of the line next to the water shutoff valve, and mark it ¼ inch below the edge of the valve's threaded shank. Disconnect the line and use a pipe cutter to cut along this mark. Repeat on the other supply line.
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    Tools List

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    • adjustable wrench
      Adjustable wrench
    • basin wrench
      Basin wrench,
      to reach parts under the sink
    • allen wrench set
      Allen wrenches,
      tp tighten set screws
    • tube bender
      Tube bender,
      for putting curves in rigid supply lines
    • pvc pipe cutter
      Pipe cutter
    • tongue-and-groove pliers
      Tongue-and-groove pliers,
      to turn large nuts and to hold parts steady when tightening fittings

    Shopping List

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    1. FAUCET

    Most come with spout, valves, braided line to connect the valves, handles, drain collar, and pop-up waste assembly, though some valves and handles are sold separately. Look for parts made from solid brass (under the finish) or stainless steel for the best quality.



    2. 3/8-inch supply lines

    to connect the sink's valves to the water supply, either rigid or braided. Rigid supply lines (aka risers) should be used in an exposed installation, but they might need to be bent to fit, which takes some finesse. Buy three (just in case) in a chrome finish for the best appearance and in lengths longer than you need. Make sure you get the ones with an "acorn head" which becomes part of the connection to the faucet valves. You will also need to buy compression fittings. [BR] Braided-steel lines are flexible and therefor easy to install but aren't as pretty. They come in various lengths, with fittings on the ends. Make sure to buy them only slightly longer than you need, with a 3/8-inch compression fitting on one end and a 1/2-inch fitting on the other.



    3. 3/8x1/2-inch compression unions

    (if needed) to connect rigid supply lines.Get two; each should include two complete compression fittings, one 3/8-inch and one 1/2-inch, which you can cannibalize for your connections. Otherwise, get two 3/8-inch fittings and two 1/2-inch fittings separately.



    4. Clear silicone sealant

    Instead of plumber's putty, to seal gaps around the valves, spout, and drain collar. Some manufacturers warn that using plumber's putty will void their finish warranties because the oil-based product can cause damage.



    5. Teflon tape

    6. Rubbing alcohol