Draw a second line ¼- inch inside the first to create a slightly smaller cutout. Later, you can bend the extra metal over the plywood to hide the sharp edge.
Place a wood scrap behind the panel and drill a ⅜-inch starting hole for the tin snips. Cut along the line, then make ¼-inch relief cuts along the cutout edge.
Install the panel over the fixture opening and bend the metal inside the plywood.
Continue installing full panels until you get close to the wall. Measure the distance between the last full course and the wall.
Using snips, trim the panels to fit. Install them with the cut edges facing the wall.
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for cutting plywood sheets
for cutting holes in plywood
for snapping layout lines
used to protect hands from sharp-edged ceiling panels
Brad nailer and compressor,
rent for about $40 a day
used to mark round cutout holes
used to mark square or rectangular cutout holes
for cutting ceiling panels
used to mark cornice layout lines on wall
come in 2x2- or 2x4-foot sizes
2. Press-metal cornice
come in 4-foot-long sections
3. 3/8-inch plywood
creates solid nailing surface for ceiling panels
4. 2 1/2-inch decking screws
for attaching the plywood underlayment
used to build T-braces for supporting plywood during installation
6. 11/4-inch-long, 18-gauge finishing nails
for brad nailer to fasten ceiling panels; or use special cone-headed nails
7. Latex caulk
used to fill gaps at the seams
8. Metallic touch-up paint
for concealing caulked gaps and mistakes on an unpainted ceiling
9. 1x4 tapping block
used to seal panel seams
10. Fine-point indelible marker
for marking cut lines on ceiling panels
11. 1/8-inch drill bit
used to locate ceiling joists
12. 3/8-inch drill bit
for boring tin-snip starting holes in ceiling panels