Using a straightedge and a utility knife, cut the veneer into strips that are ½ inch wider and 2 inches longer than each stile and rail. Cut the veneer so that the wood grain always runs lengthwise.
Hold the first piece of veneer up to a stile and align it so that it overlaps at all edges. Peel away a corner of the self-stick backing and press the veneer in place. Continue down the stile, peeling away the backing as you go.
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Hammer and nailset
Try-square and razor
if necessary to cut old drawer fronts
Provide the manufacturer with dimensions for each door. Measure the cabinet openings. Then add 1 inch to both the width and the height so that you’ll end up with a 1/2-inch overlap all around. (For split-doors, where two doors meet to cover one opening, add 1 inch to the full width, divide by two, then subtract 1/16 inch. This will give you a measurement for each door that leaves a 1/8-inch gap between the two.) If you’re installing concealed European hinges (see below), order the doors 'bored.' Specify right or left bore. If you want glass-fronted cabinets, order 'mullion' doors (specify the number of lights) or 'frame only' (single pane), then have glass inserts custom cut.
2. SELF-ADHESIVE VENEER
aka “pressure sensitive” veneer. Comes in 2-foot-by-8-foot rolls; one roll will cover about 10 cabinets.
3. DRAWER FRONTS
Measure edge to edge for the exact size of replacements.
4. PLYWOOD PANELS
to cover the exposed sides of cabinets. Measure edge to edge.
if old hinges are bent or broken, or if you want to switch to concealed European hinges with a spring that closes doors automatically.
6. KNOBS AND PULLS
(trisodium phosphate), a strong degreaser. For cleaning cabinet faces and prepping them for veneer.
8. 150-GRIT SANDPAPER and TACK CLOTH
9. CARPENTER’S GLUE
For affixing plywood panels.
10. 2D FINISH NAILS
11. WOOD FILLER