If the old front is attached to a three-sided box, use a handsaw to cut off the sides, top, and bottom of the front so that it's flush with the box. Then turn the drawer around and screw the new front to the back end of the drawer. Screw from the inside of the drawer. Remove the drawer-slide hardware and reattach it facing the other way.
Tip: When drilling knob and pull holes, make a jig out of plywood to keep the hole placement consistent.
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Hammer and nailset
Try-square and razor
if necessary to cut old drawer fronts
Provide the manufacturer with dimensions for each door. Measure the cabinet openings. Then add 1 inch to both the width and the height so that you’ll end up with a 1/2-inch overlap all around. (For split-doors, where two doors meet to cover one opening, add 1 inch to the full width, divide by two, then subtract 1/16 inch. This will give you a measurement for each door that leaves a 1/8-inch gap between the two.) If you’re installing concealed European hinges (see below), order the doors 'bored.' Specify right or left bore. If you want glass-fronted cabinets, order 'mullion' doors (specify the number of lights) or 'frame only' (single pane), then have glass inserts custom cut.
2. SELF-ADHESIVE VENEER
aka “pressure sensitive” veneer. Comes in 2-foot-by-8-foot rolls; one roll will cover about 10 cabinets.
3. DRAWER FRONTS
Measure edge to edge for the exact size of replacements.
4. PLYWOOD PANELS
to cover the exposed sides of cabinets. Measure edge to edge.
if old hinges are bent or broken, or if you want to switch to concealed European hinges with a spring that closes doors automatically.
6. KNOBS AND PULLS
(trisodium phosphate), a strong degreaser. For cleaning cabinet faces and prepping them for veneer.
8. 150-GRIT SANDPAPER and TACK CLOTH
9. CARPENTER’S GLUE
For affixing plywood panels.
10. 2D FINISH NAILS
11. WOOD FILLER