Squeeze carpenter's glue onto the plywood panel and apply it to the exposed end of the cabinet bank.
Secure the panel with 2d finish nails. Sink the heads with a nailset. Fill the holes with wood filler.
Tip: When working with paneled door designs, consider using a door instead of plywood to finish the exposed end.
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Hammer and nailset
Try-square and razor
if necessary to cut old drawer fronts
Provide the manufacturer with dimensions for each door. Measure the cabinet openings. Then add 1 inch to both the width and the height so that you’ll end up with a 1/2-inch overlap all around. (For split-doors, where two doors meet to cover one opening, add 1 inch to the full width, divide by two, then subtract 1/16 inch. This will give you a measurement for each door that leaves a 1/8-inch gap between the two.) If you’re installing concealed European hinges (see below), order the doors 'bored.' Specify right or left bore. If you want glass-fronted cabinets, order 'mullion' doors (specify the number of lights) or 'frame only' (single pane), then have glass inserts custom cut.
2. SELF-ADHESIVE VENEER
aka “pressure sensitive” veneer. Comes in 2-foot-by-8-foot rolls; one roll will cover about 10 cabinets.
3. DRAWER FRONTS
Measure edge to edge for the exact size of replacements.
4. PLYWOOD PANELS
to cover the exposed sides of cabinets. Measure edge to edge.
if old hinges are bent or broken, or if you want to switch to concealed European hinges with a spring that closes doors automatically.
6. KNOBS AND PULLS
(trisodium phosphate), a strong degreaser. For cleaning cabinet faces and prepping them for veneer.
8. 150-GRIT SANDPAPER and TACK CLOTH
9. CARPENTER’S GLUE
For affixing plywood panels.
10. 2D FINISH NAILS
11. WOOD FILLER