And, like all natural materials, cork expands and contracts with changes in weather. Each piece may only move a little, but that adds up over the width of an entire room. This cumulative effect requires you to leave a 1/2-inch space around the perimeter of the flooring. Of course, for a finished appearance you'll want to hide that expansion gap. If your walls have baseboard, you can carefully pry it off before you start, then run the flooring to within 1/2 inch of the wall and reinstall the base atop the new floor. An easier option: Leave the baseboard in place, lay the floor with that half-inch gap, and then cover it with shoe molding. If your baseboard already has shoe molding, you'll have to remove and reinstall it.
Manufacturers provide a special tapping block that, when butted to a plank and knocked with a hammer, helps lock the tongue of one piece into the groove of another. Make sure you use this block rather than a wood scrap or a direct hammer blow, both of which may damage a plank's soft pressboard backing and make a tight join impossible.
Finally, while nearly all cork flooring comes prefinished and goes down in an afternoon, a few companies suggest applying an extra protective finish coat of polyurethane after the installation. And most manufacturers recommend that you unpack all the material 72 hours before starting a job to allow it to acclimate to its surroundings. So keep your timing in mind—you may need to wait to install the flooring and then take the room out of commission for a day or two.
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Straightedge and clamps
to cut flooring
or ryoba saw, to trim door casings
Hammer or mallet
Miter box and drill/driver,
to cut and install shoe molding)
Measure the square footage of your space, then add 10 percent to that number to account for off cuts.
to mask the expansion gap
3. 1/2-INCH SPACERS
You can make these by cutting up a scrap piece of plywood.
4. 4D FINISH NAILS
to fasten the show molding
5. POLYETHYLENE SHEETING
to act as a moisture barrier if youa re installing the flooring over concrete