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How to Pick a Lock
Photo: Ellen Silverman
Key-in-Knob lockset: Schlage, Artisan series,
Photo: Ellen Silverman
Stand-alone Deadbolt: Medeco captive thumbturn double-cylinder deadbolt
Photo: Ellen Silverman
Entry Handleset: Baldwin, Logan series in Venetian bronze; inset: Kwikset, Gibson in satin nickel
Photo: Ellen Silverman
Electronic Deadbolt: Weiser Powerbolt 1000
Photo: Ellen Silverman
Interconnected Entry Set: Emtek Normandy in wrought steel
Photo: Ellen Silverman
Mortise Lock
Photo: Ellen Silverman
Copy-Proof Keys: Mul-T-Lock key
Photo: Ellen Silverman
Smart Keys: Schlage's E-Bolt deadbolt
Photo: Ellen Silverman

Key-in-Knob
The most basic lockset operates with a key on the outside knob or lever and a thumbturn or button on the inside. Technically, it's called a tubular lockset, after the 1-inch-diameter "tube" that houses the spring-loaded latching mechanism (inset). Mass-market tubular locks are generally made of stamped brass; higher-end locks will be made from heavier, forged brass with a more solid feel and a harder-wearing finish.
Shown: Schlage, Artisan series, $79

Stand-alone Deadbolt
A keyed knob by itself doesn't offer much in the way of security. So it's usually paired with a deadbolt. One-cylinder deadbolts unlock with a key on the outside and a thumbturn on the inside. Double-cylinder deadbolts are keyed on both sides. While that provides extra security on doors with glass or sidelights — an intruder can't smash the glass and open the door — it slows escape during a fire. One solution, required in some places by code, is a double-cylinder deadbolt with a "captive" feature, which prevents the interior key from being removed when the door is locked from the inside.
Shown: Medeco captive thumbturn double-cylinder deadbolt, $245

Entry Handleset
An entry handleset combines a tubular lockset and deadbolt in one matching set. Instead of a round knob, a thumblatch retracts the lower spring-loaded mechanism. On most handlesets, only the deadbolt is keyed. Some manufacturers offer the option of a keyed thumblatch, which provides a way of securing the door in addition to the deadbolt.
Shown: Baldwin, Logan series in Venetian bronze, $305; inset: Kwikset, Gibson in satin nickel, $160

Electronic Deadbolt
A four-digit access code is all it takes to unlock this electronic deadbolt. You can change the codes as often as necessary and even give temporary ones to painters, baby-sitters, and house cleaners. It runs on four AA batteries — no small feat considering that it takes a bit of torque to turn a deadbolt. A warning light an-nounces when the batteries are getting low, but if you don't change them in time, you can still unlock it the old-fashioned way: with a key.
Shown: Weiser Powerbolt 1000, $99

Interconnected Entry Set
Also called an emergency exit lock, the interconnected lockset is an entry handleset with a mechanism that links the spring-loaded door latch and deadbolt so that both open when someone turns the inside handle. There's no gain in security over a separate handle and deadbolt, but the interconnected entry set makes it easier to get out of a house in case of a fire. The linking mechanism is in a thin housing mounted on the inside door face (inset). An interconnected lockset costs more and takes more time to install than a separate lockset and deadbolt.
Shown: Emtek Normandy in wrought steel, $160

Copy-Proof Keys
Unless you give the locksmith a card with a special code printed on it, he can't make a copy of a Mul-T-Lock key. The keyway itself is designed to frustrate a potential lock picker: Where the pins in a typical lock move up and down, these move up and down while rotating. Instead of a serrated edge, the key, which is inserted horizontally, has indentations, or "dimples," that engage the pins.

Smart Keys
Schlage's E-Bolt deadbolt uses programmable keys, each of which can be given a unique identity code. That lets you choose who can open what lock, and when. You can give a key to your plumber, for instance, that only works for a couple of hours on a given day.

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Basic Locksets

How Secure Is It?
A lock's security is denoted by its American National Standards Institute (ANSI) grade, with Grade 1 the most secure and Grade 3 the least. A builder-quality tubular lock will likely be a Grade 3, a good-quality handleset a Grade 2. Only the most secure deadbolts earn a Grade 1 rating, by incorporating such features as antipick pins, extra-long bolts in extra-tough alloys, and reinforced strike plates with long screws to secure them to house framing. When choosing a lock, get the most security you can afford. Manufacturers don't always list lockset grade, so you may have to ask. Be skeptical of a lock that boasts Grade 1 "features" — just because it has one or two high-security features doesn't mean it has earned the ANSI grade.

Step By Step: How to Install a Lockset
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