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The Real Thing
Photo: Courtesy of Bruce Hardwood Floors
hardwood floors
Photo: Courtesy of Bruce Hardwood Floors
Harborlight engineered flooring
Photo: Courtesy of Bruce Hardwood Floors
solid wood strip flooring
Photo: Courtesy of Bruce Hardwood Floors
Parquet flooring
Photo: Courtesy of Bruce Hardwood Floors
Exotic and antique wood floors
Photo: Courtesy of Bruce Hardwood Floors
Decorative border
Photo: Courtesy of Bruce Hardwood Floors

Engineered flooring looks like solid wood, but it's made from thin, cross-laminated wood plies that are glued together to form strips or planks. A factory-applied finish like the one on this Maple Harborlight flooring from Bruce Hardwood Floors is very durable, so you can walk on this floor as soon as it's installed.

Solid-wood Strip flooring, popular in new construction, can be refinished many times. This solid-maple Kennedale Prestige Plank from Bruce Hardwood Floors contrasts nicely with the dark-stained wood furniture and painted walls.

Parquet Flooring comes in square pieces instead of in strips or planks. This Harris Square oak parquet floor from Harris-Tarkett was installed in a conventional basketweave pattern.

Exotic and antique wood floors from smaller companies are other options to consider. Most of these suppliers specialize in certain types of flooring—wide planks or floor boards made from salvaged timber, for example. Seen here are Santos mahogany flooring from Indusparquet and antique-pine wide planks from Goodwin Heart Pine Company.

A decorative border like this one from Historic Floors of Oshkosh adds visual appeal and can also help to delineate space, as in this dining room. For ease of installation, the border should have the same thickness and edge detail as the flooring that joins it.

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Solid Wood

Solid, 3/4-inch-thick wood flooring has been used in homes for generations. Because these floors can be refinished, they often last 100 years or longer. Red and white oak are the most common species, with prices for red-oak flooring beginning at $2.25 per square foot; white oak runs slightly more.

Popular alternatives to oak include maple ($3.80 per square foot), cherry ($4.40) and ash ($4). Search a bit more and you'll even find species like mahogany, mesquite and teak. Even within a wood species there are different grades to consider. Select and clear grades are made from premium, knot-free boards. Common and #2 grades are less expensive. This flooring will show more variation in grain and color, and occasional tight knots. Another way to save money is to specify "shorts." The frequent end joints that result from these shorter strips create a busier-looking floor, however.

There are three finishing options. You can stain flooring to darker hues; use a bleaching stain or light-toned filler treatment; or leave the floor its natural color. All are followed by a protective finish.

Several major manufacturers, such as Bruce and Hartco, offer wood flooring with factory-applied finishes. Prefinishing adds around $1.25 per square foot to the cost of your flooring. It's a good option for remodeling because you eliminate the sawdust from sanding the floor and the fumes from stain and finish. And factory finishes are pristine and very durable. Solid-wood flooring does have some limitations. It expands and warps in the presence of moisture, so it's not a wise choice for areas that get damp, like basements and baths. It must be nailed in place, making it unsuitable for use over a concrete slab unless an expensive wood subfloor is installed first. And do-it-yourselfers will find this type of flooring more difficult to install than thinner engineered strip flooring.

Step By Step: How to Lay Engineered Wood Floors
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