Sensational Ceiling

By: Joseph Truini (Page 3 of 3)

photo by Roy Inman

photos by: Roy Inman

1. Snap chalk lines to mark the locations of the ceiling joists— typically laid out 16 in. on center

photo by Roy Inman

2. SECURE the first board by toe-nailing into the tongue and nailing through the face of the board along the wall.

Boring holes near the ends of the boards

photo by Roy Inman

3. Bore small pilot holes near the ends of the boards so the 4d finishing nails don't split the thin planks.

photo by Roy Inman

4. Drive nailheads below the surface with a nailset. Be careful not to split the tongue that's milled on the board.

photo by Roy Inman

5. Remove the trim from a recessed light fixture and use it as a template to mark where it overlaps the beadboard.

photo by Roy Inman

6. Fit the last board into place and secure it by face-nailing. Set the nailheads and fill the holes with putty.

photo by Roy Inman

7. Install crown molding with coped corner joints. Apply a final paint coat to both the ceiling and molding.

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You'll probably have to cut the last board lengthwise, called ripping, to fit along the wall. Use a circular or sabre saw. Then slip the board into place and face-nail it to the joists (photo 6).

Finish by hiding the gaps around the ceiling with decorative molding. Flat moldings—door stop, base cap, cove—are easiest to install because you don't have to cut tricky compound angles or coped joints. But crown molding (photo 7) provides a more elegant, classic appearance.